A Coastal Escape with 14 Harbors, 12 Beaches, and a Blend of Nature, Art, and Innovation

by Kelly Chase

Located on the Upper Cape, the southwest corner of the peninsula, is Falmouth. Most who come are there for the water—and there is plenty of it. There are 14 harbors, 12 miles of public beaches, and over 30 ponds. Due to its meandering shoreline, Falmouth claims more coast than any other town on the Cape. Also, thanks to the protection of Buzzards Bay and Vineyard Sound, which are warmed by the Gulf Stream, the waters are typically warmer than other Cape towns.

But there are more than beach bums here. Falmouth attracts some of the brightest minds in marine science and is home to institutions like Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute and Marine Biological Laboratory. Many artists and musicians have made homes for themselves here, which show up in galleries and venues across its numerous villages. Sure, there are mini golf courses and clam shacks, but there are installations and talks at Highfield Hall and Gardens, and some Broadway musicals have taken shape at Cape Cod Theater Project. Falmouth blends the charm of classic Cape Cod with just enough modern energy to keep things interesting and current.

Where to Stay

Falmouth has eight distinct villages: Woods Hole, East Falmouth, Hatchville, Teaticket, Falmouth Heights, Waquoit, West Falmouth, and North Falmouth. If you are looking for a beach experience, Inn on the Sound is located across from Falmouth Heights Beach, and there are 12 rooms, eight of which have water views. Each morning, guests awaken to a homemade breakfast, and the hotel provides everything you need for your days spent on the beach. Nearby Mariner’s Point Resort and the Seaside Inn have kitchenettes, a pool, and are a short walk to the same public beach. If you are hoping to stay near Woods Hole, Woods Hole Passage B&B Inn has charming, family-friendly rooms set in a historic farmhouse, and the Treehouse Lodge’s rooms have a slightly retro Cape vibe and a courtyard with fire pits and yard games.

Just a little farther inland are the Captain’s Manor Inn, Inn on the Square, and the Palmer Inn, all within walking distance to the town’s beloved Main Street where there are shops and restaurants. There are plenty of rentals around Falmouth too, try Kinlin Grover Compass Vacation Rentals. Many families tend to rent the same cottage year after year, so try to wiggle your way into a spot you love.

What to Eat

Chances are if you are spending a weekend (or week) in Falmouth, then you will likely end up at the beach at some point and a picnic lunch pairs perfectly with feet in the sand. For sandwiches, there’s Dana’s Kitchen and Pie in the Sky Bakery. Looking for something a little more savory? Pies a la Mode bakes chicken pot pies and quiches. For a bold caffeine fix, head to Coffee Obsession, where the brews come with plenty of character. Beer lovers can dive into craft pours at Aquatic Brewing Co. and Bad Martha Brewing, while wine enthusiasts might prefer Cape Cod Winery, where there are fun offerings like the Rosé Mermaid Water.

For a memorable dinner, The Glass Onion, Epic Oyster, and Water Street Kitchen are top picks for special occasions. Institutions like Captain Kidd in Woods Hole and Anejo have crowd-pleasing menus and lively atmospheres. For a taste of the Mediterranean, Osteria La Civetta and La Cucina Sul Mare serve up Italian classics with coastal flair. Still wanting the true clam shack experience? Jim’s Clam Shack will fill your cup. When you’re ready for dessert head to Smitty’s Ice Cream where the scoops are creamy and homemade. Later in the evening, Liam Maguire’s Pub features live music certain nights of the week, as does British Beer Company.

What to Do

With 12 miles of public shoreline, Falmouth has no shortage of beach options. Some local favorites include Bristol, Chapoquoit, Menauhant, Old Silver, Stony, Surf Drive, and Wood Neck. Chapoquoit, affectionately known as “Happy Chappy,” is a hit with families and is home to tidal pools perfect for low-tide exploration. Falmouth Heights Beach draws a crowd with its prime location and easy access to restaurants just steps away. Wood Neck Beach offers a unique mix of ocean swimming, tidal pools, and marsh exploration, making it ideal for everything from sunbathing and beachcombing to crabbing, wading, and floating along gentle currents.

There are plenty of ways to get on—or in—the water in Falmouth. Jump into swimming spots like Punch Bowl at Beebe Woods and Jenkins Pond. Then there are fishing charters with Patriot Party Boats, coastal and island tours with Woods Hole Island Tours, and scenic sails aboard the schooner Liberté. Sightseeing highlights include Nobska Light and the scenic 10- to 15-minute walk out to the Knob.

For cyclists, the Shining Sea Bikeway—named for Falmouth resident Katharine Lee Bates, who wrote “America the Beautiful”—is a ribbon of paved trails spanning 10 miles. (Pro tip: Wear your bathing suit so you can hop in the water along the way.) Highfield Hall & Gardens invites visitors to explore art exhibits, walking trails, and beautifully maintained grounds. Falmouth’s greener side continues at Bourne Farm and the tranquil Spohr Gardens, while Tony Andrews Farm offers a hands-on experience with seasonal pick-your-own strawberries, peas, apples, and pumpkins.

Main Street is full of shops, whether you’re hunting for coastal keepsakes, handmade pottery and jewelry, or high-end clothing. Check the Cape Cod Baseball League’s schedule to find out if the Falmouth Commodores are playing a home game at Fuller’s Field. For a fun evening, try College Light Opera Theater or Cape Cod Theater Project, the latter invites playwrights each summer to workshop and present a play. They are doing something right because over half of its plays have gone on to be produced on Broadway, Off-Broadway and at regional theaters around the world. And then there’s Movies Under the Stars, a free outdoor movie series held on the Falmouth Public Library lawn every Wednesday in July and August. Movies start at dusk (usually around 8 p.m.) and attendees are encouraged to bring blankets, chairs, and snacks. Throughout the year, Falmouth hosts a variety of events, with summer standouts including the Barnstable County Fair in July, the Woods Hole Film Festival in late July and early August, and the world-renowned Falmouth Road Race in August.

Falmouth is also the main jumping-off point to the island of Martha’s Vineyard, which is just seven miles offshore. The Steamship Authority provides year-round daily ferry services to the island, and the trip is typically 40 minutes, making a daytrip easy. But chances are, you won’t want to leave this bustling community by the sea.